Vintage Gallery #4 The 18th Century Dress (Sanderson Collection)

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The 1960s Bundeswehr (West German) Greatcoat



Fashion and the military look: it’s a permanent fling. Classic lines, authenticity, distinctiveness, the whiff of romance… and let’s not forget function. These clothes keep their promises. Swoon.



Hidden in the inside pocket, this coat’s fabulously utilitarian label indicates it’s West German, 1960s. My good friend and German to English translator Adam Ramsey tells me "Altenkessel – Saar" is the location of the manufacturer “Werner Mahlberg”. 

I picked it up at my local Oxfam shop for £5 (in international currency, the price of two Starbucks lattes). Yes, I am rather smug about that.

I have spent some time imagining a colourful history for it, but I suspect it was army-surplus. Un-issued. No derring-do has been done.



In soft grey wool with a full satin lining, it’s tapered at the waist and surprisingly small. Eye-catching on a boy but jaw-dropping on a girl, especially one with an hourglass figure and pepper-red lipstick. The enemy will surrender; willingly.

At the back is a lush, cross-over half-belt and large button-down vent for that motorbike ride into the sunset.



What I can’t capture with my camera is its immense weight. You stand to attention the second you put it on, or risk not being able to breathe.



Wear with a swagger, or if you can’t manage that, inebriation.




I’m indebted to Bob Gowen at Gowen Militaria for confirming this coat is  Bundeswehr (West German) in origin. 


Invitation to Comment: What’s was your best charity shop find? Do you get your military look from army surplus stores, or prefer the high street interpretations? 



Next Post: The Spitalfields Silk Dress


What is Vintage Copywriting? 


Gorgeous vintage finds, described with adoration and photographed up-close by English fashion copywriter Angela Montague. This blog fuses my day job as a fashion copywriter with my two obsessions: beautiful old things and photography.

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Comments

  1. Anonymous13 March 2011 at 22:01

    where can I buy one

    ReplyDelete
  2. Angela18 March 2011 at 10:43

    Where can you buy one? I can point you to Gowen Militaria (who have a link in the blogpost) but it depends what country you are in.

    I was lucky enough to find mine in my local Oxfam.

    Angela

    ReplyDelete
  3. Anonymous21 May 2013 at 09:41

    Hey I have a 1959 Sportra Arnstorf one, it looks very similar, and sounds very similar, but I'm not sure what Sportra Arnstorf means

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Angela28 May 2013 at 10:51

      Well my very limited German indicates Sporta means Sport and Arnstorf is a placename, so I am guessing this is the name of the manufacturer for your coat.

      Delete
  4. Schokakoala8 August 2015 at 20:28

    looks (by the buttons) to be a Bundesmarine (Navy) overcoat (Army has silver buttons)

    I recently found an Übermantel, designed to go over the greatcoat from 1961 Bundesmarine issue. Nice fur lining and oilcloth shoulder cover. best thing I have ever bought ^-^

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Angela25 August 2015 at 16:49

      Thanks for the extra information, I really appreciate this new detail. I have been looking at the coat only this week as I am getting ready for the Steampunk festival in Lincoln - not that it really qualifies but I always like to look at it when I go through the wardrobe in the attic where it lives!

      Delete
    2. Schokakoala2 March 2016 at 14:00

      Update: Selling the Mantel ;)

      Delete
    3. Angela Montague2 March 2016 at 15:46

      Oh no! Hope you've found a suitable replacement for it!

      Delete
  5. Schokakoala28 April 2016 at 12:30

    I actually just found an identical coat to yours at an antique shop, swapped for some boots hat didn't fit.
    The previous owner tore out the makers label so I can't see when it was made >:(

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Angela Montague28 April 2016 at 14:41

      Sorry to hear that, did you get it anyway? I expect it would be a very similair time to this one. Daft to tear out a label, in fact, like vandelism :(

      Delete
  6. Mr. Derp15 February 2017 at 20:29

    I found one similar to this one in my local thrift store for $5.00 dated 1966 - except it's black with gold anchor buttons. It fits but it's very long. I'm 6'2" and it comes down below my knees. I'm guessing it's a navy admiral great coat/pea coat. Perfect condition size 45.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Angela21 April 2017 at 19:49

      Sounds like an amazing find, well done. Must be tricky to shop for your height.

      Delete
  7. Anonymous4 November 2017 at 15:55

    I have one like posted above although it has a vinyl portion covering the chest. I haven't been able to find one like it online and was wondering if anyone knows why the difference in construction.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Flawed Twenty-Something27 March 2018 at 09:50

    I just found an identical coat in a local charity store. It was marked $15AUD but only had to pay $12. The label on the inside of this has Biowski in red and then a series of numbers which i am unsure of. The large buttons on it say extra fein 25mm. I really want to learn the history of this piece. Cant wait to get around in it 💜🖤

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Angela Montague27 March 2018 at 12:26

      Hello - I'm delighted with your find and hope my blog has added some knowledge to the coat you now own. Mine is very heavy, gives you quite a work out if you wear it all day!

      Delete

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